Orateur
Philippe Bonneton
Description
In this presentation, we investigate the spectral behavior of random sawtooth waves propagating in the nearshore inner surf zone. We show that the elevation energy spectrum exhibits a universal shape, following a $\omega^2$ trend in the inertial subrange and an exponential decay in the diffusive subrange (where $\omega$ is the angular frequency). A theoretical spectrum is derived based on the similarities between sawtooth waves in the inner surf zone and Burgers wave solutions. This theoretical spectrum shows very good agreement with laboratory experiments covering a wide range of incident random wave conditions.
